I have a oxygen tank valve. The only place I could find it without the whole assembly was at morebeer:
http://morebeer.com/view_product/16606//Oxygen_Regulator_-_For_Disposable_Tanks_w_BarbI have used both the stainless (which I currently use now) and the fish stones. The fish stones only last a few batches and then they start to break apart. They work just fine, but if your going to use pure O2 I'd go with the stainless. As far as oxygenating your beer, be careful with pure O2. I only oxygenate for about 2 -2:30 minutes per batch before I pitch yeast. You can go back at about the 12-18 hour period and give it another shot of O2, but avoid it after that.
Too much oxygen can make your yeast work too fast and give you fusol alcohol flavors ( or the hot, solvent like flavors) especially in big beers. The best way to make sure you get proper fermentation is to pitch a good amount of yeast. For my 10 gallon batches I build a 4 liter starter using 1 activator pack of Wyeast and then let that finish, chill it to let the yeast drop out, and then decant off almost all of the liquid, leaving just enough to get a good swirling action, so my slurry is nice and thick and you get all the yeast out of the flask. Otherwise it would take about 4 activator packs to get the same yeast.
Hope that helps.
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