- mike frohlich wrote:
- It's all dependent on style, length of time you leave them in the fermenter, and what kind of alpha acids/hop oils each particular hop carries. Warrior is a great bittering hop, which I use in Feast Like a Sultan IPA, but would make a very poor dry hop. You need to look for varieties that are more aroma types.
I agree about Warrior being more suited to use as a bittering hop. It's just the first example that came to mind of a hop with a bunch of oils.
In comparison to Mike's technique, I'm dry-hopping after fermentation is complete and my yeast has mostly dropped out. There's research out in the pro brewing world that suggests a change in the timing of dry-hop additions will give you quite different results.
Dry-hop early, you might create flavor compounds achievable only in that specific case. Some brewers suggests there are flavor compounds created by the interaction of fermentation, its byproducts, and hop oils that are unachievable, or at least quite difficult to achieve, in any other brewing scenario.
Dry-hop just before the end of fermentation and some of the aroma might gas out with the CO2 and some of the oils will flocculate with the yeast but you'll have much less oxygen in the beer because, like the aroma compounds, it'll get scrubbed out of solution with the CO2. The easy solution is to just add more hops and you'll make up for those losses.
Dry-hop after the yeast have dropped and you'll get less loss of those flavor compounds but you've got a potential oxygen problem. This is the method I use. I can't speak to how much extra oxygen it lets in, though. I don't have any way to evaluate the dissolved oxygen levels in my bottles. Plus, I'm picking up way more oxygen bottling than what I'm introducing through dry-hopping. If I want to worry about flavor-stability, I'd first modify my bottling methods before looking at my dry-hopping technique.